Trekking in Jammu and Kashmir

The northern most state of India is the state of J&K - i.e. Jammu and Kashmir. This state lies in the middle of a vast political battle between us and Pakistan, and it is here that I decided to go on my trek this year.

I try and go on a trek every year.

You can reach J&K by flight or by road. It is not an easy journey, and when I set off from Sarai Rohilla in the corner of Delhi, little did I know that I was travelling up to the northern most rail point in J&K - i.e. Udhampur.

The Udhampur special I was on emptied out in Jammu. I was in a particularly anti-social mood that day, having gotten up after being rudely awoken by the little baby in my compartment. They can't help it, and the baby was sweet. The parents were doting and on the surface, all was fine.

But why did they have to get my neighbouring berth? Where is the fairness in the world?

One tip to remember is that prepaid does not work in J&K. They banned it sometime last year. So once we crossed the border, almost everyone's phones stopped working. Except mine and a few others. However I refused to offer my phone to anyone, which led to my neighbour almost missing her train.

Like I said, anti social mood.

But why couldn't she have just asked me politely for my phone?

Mysteries of the World my friend, Mysteries of the World.

So I reached Udhampur, and then got a ride to the second stop - Nathutop. See, the group I was with, had no women. So I was put with a group that had left the previous day so that I would have company and so I wouldn't have to wait for the next group.

Nathutop was beautiful with a brilliant view. We were next to an Army base, which was really really cool.

After that, we proceeded to Sanasar. That was mostly downhill and was a pleasant trek. The next day was a bit tough, cuz we had to go to Patnitop, which involved us again passing Nathutop. Me and my friend Suma really bonded on this trek!!

The kids we were with were awesome. They climbed up and down those mountains like they were nothing. Really bright and athletic kids I would say!!

Patnitop to Mantalai was an adventure. We crossed by Gourikund and Sudhmahadev on the way.

Gaurikund is a reflection spot of Goddess Saraswati, where she used to do prarthana to Lord Shiva. It is a nice but small spot. I soaked my feet in cool water near the place. It was peaceful, but got me thinking about how difficult it must be manage crowds on that steep hillside.

Sudhmahadev has a big trishul. It is believed that Lord Shiva shot his trishul to protect Uma, his consort who was being followed by a demon. This trishul is apparently still present in the mandir. Now I went in the mandir, but couldn't make it out.

The last stretch was amazingly steep and frightening because of the torrential downpour we found ourselves in. It was awesomely difficult and I stopped by a small house to avoid the rain. In the end we had two little kids accompanying me who took me up.

They say that Mantalai is the place where Shiva married Parvati - and we passed the pond near the temple where this happened. Dhirendra Brahmachari had heavily invested in this town and was a powerful influence there. Further he is said to be the spiritual leader of Indira Gandhi. He died in an accident near the ashram he set up at Mantalai.

The next day we went by bus from Mantalai to Udhampur. From there, we took a trip nearby to Kricchi, which is the site of 11th century Pandava temples. It is an ASI sight and to be seen to be believed.

Awesome.

All in all, it was a brilliant trip. I also finished Milan Kundera's Unbearable Lightness of Being at Patnitop.